The WinePod design and hardware has several advantages. But, having
great hardware won’t help you if you don’t have great fruit and the best
methods. The 2013 harvest was another
high quality harvest in California. Last week, there was an article on the BBC
about the WinePod and a wine critic in the U.K. commented that he was quite
sure that a home winemaker could not create a wine with the same complexity and
quality as a commercial winery. Of
course, this is not true. Maybe more
importantly it really misses the whole point of the joy of making something of
quality and sharing it with people you love. In this post I want to explain exactly why you
can make a high quality wine by way of explaining how to make great Cabernet in
the WinePod.
The Cabernet winemaking process taught via the WineCoach
software is the same advanced method used to create many of the top Cabernets
in the world. Briefly explained, a warm
fermentation followed by an extended maceration of the newly made wine on the
skins. Then gentle pressing and ageing
in a high quality French oak barrel. If
you have high quality fruit and follow the same method, you will get the same
results, right?
Not if you don’t have the right equipment. Does your winemaking hardware allow you to
create the same conditions as those found in a winery? Very few home winemakers have the equipment
and methods necessary to do this. The critical
difference for home winemakers is small scale vs. winery scale.
Scale means several things I want to tell you about in this
post. Scale means the size of the “biomass”
All things being equal, such as punch downs, larger fermentations extract
higher levels of flavor and color due to higher, more prolonged, temperatures. Many small scale fermentations just don’t get
warm enough and stay warm enough. This
is true for red wines only. In fact, the opposite is true for white wine
fermentations. Most home wineries do not
have a cool enough environment.
Last month we made Merlot from a friend’s vineyard here in
Almaden. We filled the WinePod with
about 15 gallons of must and an equal amount in a food-grade 18 gallon tub. The grapes were from from the same vineyard
block and picked the same day. Otherwise
the wines were treated exactly the same way with the same yeast and same number
of punch downs. The WinePod’s heating
system kept the fermentation temperature in the mid-80s during the second half
of the fermentation. The wine made in
the tub was markedly cooler as the temperature at night was in the mid-50s. The tub was not able to maintain temperatures.
The heat created by the fermentation was not enough to overcome the coolness at
night. It was a cool fermentation. The
results were immediately visible: the WinePod wine was deep purple. The tub created wine that was ruby
colored. The WinePod Merlot had much
more flavors extracted. The tub was a lighter
flavor. The tub wine was nothing like
what you would get in a larger fermenter in a winery because the temperature
was too low. Therefore, being able to heat
small scale fermentation is critical to making high quality Cabernets or any
other red wine. It’s not just critical
during fermentation, its critical during post-fermentation too.
But what about access to high quality fruit? When the WinePod is coupled with high-quality
frozen must from a top vineyard, the potential of what a first time winemaker can
accomplish vs. a high end artisanal winery is unparalleled.
But, getting your hands on grapes from high quality vineyards
is not easy. Ignoring the proximity
issue for a moment, you are competing with established wineries, with strong
relationships to growers. Wineries buy
grapes literally by the truckload or buy the vineyard block. Wineries can increase a grower’s prestige
and value via a vineyard designated wine. Wineries often will agree to long
term sales contracts. So even if you are
in physical proximity to a great vineyard, when you call asking to buy a couple
hundred pounds of grapes, many times the grower doesn’t want to bother because
they are already working 24/7 during harvest and you are small potatoes.
But, we can help. We
can offer you great quality grapes anywhere you live. How do we do that? We supply frozen grape must. What? How can that be as good as fresh grapes? Well, actually, it is better than fresh
grapes because you can store and ship them anywhere the WinePod owner
lives.
I have had tastings with winemakers where they could not
tell the difference between wine made from fresh grapes or frozen. In fact, it has been scientifically proven by
several studies.
One such study done in 2007 by the University of Adelaide
claims, “Chemical analyses of six wines
showed little variation in color profiles and final ethanol and organic acid
concentrations. More importantly from a winemaking point of view, a descriptive
sensory analysis revealed that all wines across each treatment and fermentation
scale compared very well to each other. Key differences were limited to more
appealing characteristics (i.e., lower tannin hardness and burnt/smoky
attributes and higher fresh/fruity and red berry attributes) in the wine made
on a 300 kg scale from frozen must. This study therefore provides quantitative
data on the effectiveness of freezing for fruit preservation as well as the
ability of small volume fermentations (20 and 50 kg) to be representative of
conditions approaching those found in industry.” Yes, you read that right. Many of the frozen grape wines in this were
superior to fresh grape wines.
Another variable of small scale vs. winery scale is risk of
over oxidation. Everyone knows that a
wine that becomes over oxidized loses its quality. Oxidation is a very complex thing in
winemaking. Exposing a newly fermented
wine to small amounts of oxygen is critical to enabling long term ageing. The ability of your young Cabernet to absorb
oxygen drops more than 100x as it ages.
Small scale winemaking invariably means that there is more surface area
of wine exposed to oxygen because the volume is smaller. This can be very good, but you have to be
careful. It means that you can age wine
in a barrel more quickly. But it also
means that you should not rack your wine as often as a winery. In fact, I don’t
rack my Cabernets at all and I don’t think you should either. If you follow this method, you will not be at
a disadvantage due to small volume and in fact will have an advantage in less maturation
time.
The other important variable of small scale vs. winery scale
is blending. Big wineries have more
individual lots to choose from. Many wineries will sell their lower quality
lots as bulk wine. Some wineries have so
many lots, that they may have trouble giving individual attention to a
particular lot. For example, did you
know that very large wineries don’t even measure the Brix of all their barrel
fermented wines? They don’t have the
manpower to do this. They just use
statistics to guess when the barrels are finished fermenting. This lack of ability to babysit each fermentation
gives you an advantage over a large winery.
As the saying goes, “it’s OK to keep all your eggs in one basket –just watch
that basket!” A wine made in a WinePod
is normally just a single lot. Where a
wine from a small artisanal winery may be several lots from several vineyards aged
in many different barrels. The increase
of lot size can create complexity due to different vineyard blocks and different
fermentation temperatures, barrel treatments and other factors. A winery will also blend in small amounts of
different varietals. A Cabernet is
usually not 100% Cabernet, but may have small amounts of Cabernet Franc, Merlot
or other blending wines.
So how does a small scale winemaker create complexity? It is
very simple, if you get high quality fruit, it will have complex flavors. That is one reason why it is high quality. In addition to that, you can blend small
amounts of commercial wines into your wine and you can separate your fermented
wine into several lots for ageing. One
can have American Oak and another can be French or unoaked. In fact, I feel perfectly comfortable using
good quality commercial wines to top up a barrel if necessary. It is very convenient and it will add
complexity or otherwise balance a wine. In fact, I think it is no problem to add a
couple percent of commercial wines to your wine. A 30 liter WinePod barrel is approximately 40
bottles of wine. If you were to add a
bottle of Cabernet Franc and a bottle of Merlot would be an addition of less
than 5% and can add a lot of complexity to your wine.
Home winemakers do make great wines when they have high
quality fruit, good equipment and methods.
That is why the WinePod enables first time winemakers to make great wines. As many WinePod owners can attest, creating a
wine of beauty is a joy to share.